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Eaten and cultivated since prehistoric times, onions were mentioned in first dynasty
of ancient Egypt, circa 3200 BCE, and have appeared in tomb paintings, inscriptions
and documents from that time on. Some paintings depict onions heaped onto banquet
tables, both the robust bulb onions as well as scallions.
Of all foods in the plant kingdom, onions set the record for the most frequent
appearance in ancient Egyptian art. It certainly is no wonder since they were
the staple food of the poor along with bread and beer. Onions often appeared in
Egyptian art as a sacrifice that appeared on their altars.
Strange as it seems today, in ancient Egypt a basket of onions was considered
a very respectable funeral offering, rating only second to a the highly revered
basket of bread.
Archeologists discovered small onions in the eye sockets in the mummy of King
Ramses IV who died in 1160 BCE. To the Egyptians, the onion, with its concentric
layers, represented eternal life and was buried with each of their Pharoahs.
The origin of the name "onion" comes from the classical period when
it was given the Latin name uniothat means oneness or unity, or a kind of single
onion. The French call it oignon. Martin Elcort in his book The Secret Life of
Food writes, "The word (onion) was created by adding the onion-shaped letter
o to the word union, yielding a new spelling ounion. The letter u was later dropped
to create the modern spelling. A union is something that is indivisible and which,
if taken apart, is destroyed in the process, like an onion."
Wild onions presently grow in Central Asia where the whole family of onions is
said to have originated, though some say it was in the area of Iran, Afghanistan,
and Pakistan. Those familiar looking, round, mature bulbs are in the Allium cepa
genus that is part of the lily family. There are 325 species of onions, 70 of
which grow in North America. The grand allium family includes onions, shallots,
green onions (often called scallions), chives, leeks, and garlic.
Food historians shake their heads regarding the exact origin of the onion. Some
varieties of onions have been given popular names like Egyptian onions or Welsh
onions with no evidence that they actually grew in those countries. For instance,
the Welsh onion, A. fistulosum, is considered quite primitive in that it has never
developed a bulb, but rather resembles a scallion with a slightly thickened stem.
The Welsh were not inclined to cultivate them on any large scale, and they weren't
even introduced into the country until 1629.
More confusing is the Egyptian onion, a tree onion that was actually unknown in
Egypt. A specimen of this unique onion variety came to the attention of Frenchman
Jacques Dalechamp, in his country in 1587. The Egyptian onion, never having developed
a substantial bulb, did not become popular because it has difficulty developing
seeds to reproduce itself. This variety was officially introduced into Great Britain
in 1820 from Canada.
Historians have been puzzled to see the tree onion, along with the Welsh onion,
growing wild in North America.
In their immature state scallions are called spring onions in Britain, though
spring onions and scallions are terms sometimes used interchangeably. This causes
some confusion. In the southern United States scallions are called green shallots.
The Sumerians of Mesopotamia, the first to establish a written language, developed
cuneiform inscriptions. Archeologists found one of their inscriptions dating back
to 2400 BCE that read, "The oxen of the gods plowed the city governor's onion
patches. The onion and cucumber patches of the city governor were located in the
gods' best fields." The inscription actually referred to the property of
the temple as the "gods' best fields" that were being misused as an
onion patch by the city governors.
One cannot deny the power of the onion on the olfactory senses. The rich found
the odor downright disgusting. In spite of their negative attitudes, though, this
"odorous" vegetable was cultivated in the gardens of the ancient kings
from 2100 BCE to 716 BCE from Ur to Babylon.
From ancient history up to the 19th century, onions were relegated as the food
for the poor. The Code of Hammurabi, known as the ancient law of Mesopotamia,
shows great concern for the needy by providing them a monthly ration of bread
and onions, a ration that comprised the mainstay of the peasant diet. As disagreeable
as the onion was to the aristocrats, the peasants devoured them completely raw.
Apparently onions took on dual status in the attitudes in the ancient world. In
Egypt they were highly revered by the poor and eaten extensively along with bread
and beer. A small sect of Egyptian priests, however, were forbidden to eat them.
Historians are unsure of the reason for this taboo. On the other hand, onions
may have been reviled by those in high positions. In India Brahmins and Jains
are also forbidden to eat onions, even today. Presently in France there is a sect
with only a few thousand followers who revere the onion for its immortality and
consider it divine.
By 500 BCE onions were a common peasant food in Greece. Though the variety of
vegetables eaten by the ancient Greeks was limited to onions, garlic, peas, cabbage
and lentils because most were expensive, the onion, however, was the exception.
Because it grew easily and extensively, the poor could afford onions as a staple.
Onions played a role during the period Alexander the Great was leading his armies
in conquest of other lands. It was believed that if one ate strong foods, one
would become strong. Alexander fed his men onions believing they would increase
their strength and courage.
In ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome the common folk relished their onions and even
ate them raw. We're all familiar with onion breath. Perhaps that is why the upper
classes, such as the Brahmins of India, turned up their noses. Apicius, Imperial
Rome's first cookbook author, never featured onions in his cuisine of the wealthy
but only used them as flavorings in sauces or to enhance a mixed dish or a dressing.
The common folk frequently started their day with a hearty serving of raw onions
on bread, a recurring theme throughout the peasant world, and one abhorred by
the upper classes.
In Pompeii those "lowly vendors" who sold onions were rejected from
the guild of fruit and vegetable vendors, and had to form their own guild. In
the brothels of Pompeii, however, onions were held in high regard. Archeologists
discovered a basket of overcooked onions in the ruins of one of the city's best-loved
brothels where the elite co-mingled with the onioneaters, and, no doubt, enjoyed
a few raw slices themselves.
By the first century, Rome developed a healthy respect for onions, which were
suspended from numerous strings that hung from the ceiling of the Trajan market.
It was during the Middle Ages, that the onion finally achieved status, where the
low-born as well as aristocracy relished them equally. In fact, they were so appreciated
that Emporer Charlemagne ordered onions to be planted in his royal garden, they
were written into the French feudal deeds, and strings of onions were even accepted
as payment for the use of land.
On his second to sailing to Haiti during the period of 1493 to 1494, Columbus
brought the varieties of the cultivated onion to the New World. Though there were
some native wild onions growing in America, they didn't compare to the intense
flavor of the new variety from Europe. The Indians quickly adopted these new onions
with great enthusiasm, especially the garlic.
Not so insignificant after all, America's native tree onions and nodding onions
provided sustenance to Pere Marquette, a French Jesuit missionary and explorer,
in 1624 when starvation threatened during his explorations from Green Bay, Wisconsin,
to Lake Michigan's southern shore. The city of Chicago, a region that grew wild
onions in abundance, received its name from the Indian word that described the
odor of onions
Had it not been for onions, the civil war might have turned out differently. General
Ulysses S. Grant, who headed the Union forces, sent a note to the War Department
that read, "I will not move my troops without onions." He promptly received
three cartloads. Grant also employed the juice of onions medicinally as a wound
healer.
American cowboys favored another native onion, the prairie onion, that they called
skunk egg. No doubt it earned this descriptive name because of its powerful odor.
Odor aside, the onion lends exceptional flavor to any raw or cooked dish and was
always included in a favorite cowboy plat du jour called son-of-a-bitch stew.
What Famous Writers Have to Say about Onions
Onions certainly have stirred writers, chefs, and gourmets to expound on their
good as well as questionable and often challenging qualities. Robert J. Courtine,
a French gourmet, says, "The onion is the truffle of the poor."
French writer Raymond Dumay affectionately expresses his thought on the onion
in this way, "Garlic is peasant, rustic; the onion is urban. The onion brings
to the kitchens of the cities a little of the countryside . . . the onion offers
always, and especially in winter, a little of the springtime of the soil, preserved
in its bulb."
Juvenal, a Roman satirist, created this poem about the Egyptians:
How Egypt, mad with superstition grown,
Makes gods of monsters but too well is known.
'Tis moral sin an Onion to devour,
Each clove of garlic hath a sacred power,
Religious nation sure, and best abodes,
When every garden is o'errun with gods!
Medicinal Uses
In sixth century India onions were used as a diuretic. They were also considered
beneficial for the heart, the eyes, and the joints.
During Colonial times in the U.S., a slice or two of wild onions was thought to
be a cure for the measles.
In Chinese medicine, globe onions (allium cepa) are said to calm the liver, moisten
the intestines, and benefit the lungs. Raw onions are prescribed for constipation,
for lowering high blood pressure, and for healing wounds or ulcers of the skin.
Spring onions, or scallions (allium fistulosum), are used to induce sweating.
One application for the common cold is to take 20 spring onions and simmer them
with rice to make porridge. Add a little vinegar and eat while it is warm. Then
wrap yourself up in blankets to induce sweating.
Some health studies have shown raw onions to be effective in lowering overall
cholesterol while raising HDLs, the good cholesterol. Additionally, onions kill
infectious bacteria, help to control blood sugar, aid in dissolving blood clots,
and help to prevent cancer.
At the University of California at Berkeley, researchers found that yellow and
red onions, along with shallots, contain quercetin, a powerful antioxidant that
acts as an anti-cancer agent to block the formation of cancer cells. One and one-half
to three and one-half ounces of raw onions eaten regularly contain enough quercetin
to offer cancer protection. White onions lack this antioxidant.
Researcher Terrance Leighton, Ph.D. of the University of California at Berkeley
also learned that quercetin deactivates the growth of estrogen-sensitive cells
often found to cause breast cancer.
Asthma sufferers may also benefit from a hearty dose of onions. Researchers discovered
a sulfur compound contained in onions that can prevent the biochemical chain reaction
that leads to asthma attacks.
Selenium, a trace mineral found in onions and garlic, has also demonstrated anti-cancer
abilities.
Know Your Onions
"Know your onions" was a term coined in the 1920s to indicate that the
many varieties of onions that were cultivated over the years never acquired standardized
names from one locale to another. Knowing your onions meant becoming familiar
with those varieties that were grown and sold in the area where you live. In later
years "knowing your onions" was an idiomatic expression used to describe
a thorough knowledge of a subject.
Onions are grown in practically every one of the United States, with varieties
developed specifically for each climate. There is hardly a country in the world
that doesn't grow multiple varieties of the allium family, since wild varieties
existed from prehistoric times. Today onions are bred to adapt well to their different
climatic conditions.
Some varieties were quite small like pickling onions that were about one-half
inch in diameter, while others became giants. One of the largest onions ever grown
appeared in Scotland and weighed in at 6 1/2 pounds.
Onions come in a variety of colors--white, brown, yellow, and red (or purple),
while flavors range from mild and sweet to strong and biting. Nearly all onions
will make you cry when you cut them--the stronger they are, the more tears you
will shed.
Onion breeders closely studied the onion's sulfur compounds, resulting over time
in the development of several varieties of sweet onions that were high in water
and sugar content. Sweet onions are mostly grown in California and Texas, with
Georgia, New Mexico, Washington, and Arizona producing them in smaller quantities.
Mild sweet onions include the following varieties:
- Spanish onions: known for their mild and delicately sweet flavor.
- Bermuda onions: another category of mild onions that come in red, white, or
yellow.
- Walla-Walla Sweet onions: originally came from Corsica at the beginning of
the 20th century and arrived in Walla-Walla, Washington where they are grown today.
- Texas Sweets 1015: available mid spring through early summer.
- Among the hybrid sweet varieties are Vidalia which come from Vidalia, Georgia
and Maui onions that come from the island of Maui in Hawaii where the volcanic
soil contributed to their sweetness.
Uses in Foods
Though the onion has not yet distinguished itself in American cuisine, it certainly
has in other countries. The British love their stuffed onions. The French created
onion soup, a universal favorite. The gourmet onion tart developed in Alsace,
a northeastern region of France. Bhaji, a flavorful onion fritter, comes from
India. A soubise an onion sauce or puree, also came from the cuisine of France
and frequently accompanied lamb or mutton dishes.
Onion-skins are usually considered the discards of the vegetable, but not always.
Some people have discovered their powerful ability to lend a rich golden color
to soups and to dye yarn and fabric. The Greeks traditionally use red onion-skins
to dye their Easter eggs a bright pinkish red.
Nutritional Benefits
If you're counting calories, you might want to take advantage of the low-calorie
content of sweet raw onions. With 1/2-cup of chopped raw onions, you'll tally
up a mere 30 calories. If you cook those same onions, you're up to a only 46 calories.
On the protein scene, 1/2-cup of cooked onions touts 1.4 gms, while the raw have
.9 gms. The fat content of this quantity barely registers at .2 gm for cooked
onions, and .1 gm for raw.
The folic acid content offers a surprising 15.8 mcg for the cooked, and 15.2 mcg
for raw.
Both raw and cooked onions have trace amounts of B vitamins, iron, and zinc but
stand out with potassium, magnesium, and calcium. While potassium registers 174.3
mg for 1/2-cup cooked onions, raw onions come in at 125.6 mg. Vitamin C, though
not record-breaking, delivers 5.5 mg and 5.1 mg respectively.
Scallions pack a powerful punch of vitamin A with 193 IU for 1/2 C. raw with their
tops. Folic acid registers 32.0 mcg, and vitamin C offers 9.4 mg.
Be sure to include scallions in your salads frequently for their high calcium,
potassium, and magnesium scores.
And don't forget the powerful antioxidants delivered by onions. Quercetin has
anti-cancer agents. Onion has been cultivated since antiquity. Ancient Egypt was
famed for the mildness of its onions. High in vitamins B1, B2 and C, modern research
indicates that onion may be helpful in reducing gas pains, hypertension, high
blood sugar, cholesterol and fat content of the blood, and in relieving pain and
inflammation.
Onion sprouts taste like fresh onion and are generally blended with clover or
alfalfa to make them more mild. Pale to bright yellow sprouts with a black seed
and a distinct onion aroma. A good source of vitamin A, B group vitamins, iodine,
phosphorous and potassium.
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